Pastry! Sausage! Controversy! Sleuthing! We get our first highly controversial elimination of the season, and the power rankings reach embarrassing new heights of obsessive thoroughness. More on that in a moment.
First, pastry. As mentioned last week, pastry freaks chefs out. Some of the most talented chefs are completely incapable of making a good cake. Though you might not think so at first, they're really completely different disciplines. Being a chef is about throwing things together, tasting, adjusting and improvising. Being a pastry chef is no less creative, but it's about precision, and there's a lot less room for on-the-fly improvisation. This is, however, season four, and most of the chefs seemed prepared, if a little out of their element. Chicago has an extremely high-profile pastry chef in Gale Gand, so unless she and Rick Tramonto are going to make an appearance later in the season (which would be nice), it's a little disappointing to see another NY import -- especially one who hasn't already been on the show. That said, I've eaten multiple times at both Jean Georges and Tru and, uh, sorry Gale... I enjoyed Iuzzini's desserts a lot more.
As to the controversy, while my annoyance didn't quite reach the same level of the comments I've been reading, I didn't like this call one bit at first. After watching the show I had the same impression that everybody else seems to have -- that Antonia and Lisa completely ignored the challenge and didn't use their primary ingredient. And while I could see the judges saying something to Stephanie and Jennifer along the lines of, "Guys, we know they strayed way off course, but you have to give us something to hang out hat on and you just didn't," I didn't like the precedent being set that you can basically ignore the parameters of the challenge and get away with it. Fudge them, okay -- but ignore them completely? I thought Antonia or Lisa should have gotten the axe.
But then, as I was doing my research for this week's rankings, I took a look at the recipe for their dish. And lo and behold, there's the Polish sausage, mixed in with the chorizo! Now, the recipes on the website aren't always entirely accurate. I've known them to omit ingredients or components at times. But it's one thing to erroneously omit an ingredient. It's another thing entirely to erroneously add an ingredient that was never there in the first place. So this got me wondering... despite the quotes from Lisa and Antonia that seemed to clearly indicate they were NOT going to use Polish sausage, did they end up using some after all, or did they amend their recipe for the website after the fact to include the thematic ingredient that was never there?
So I rewatched the episode, trying to pay very close attention to exactly what was said. Antonia clearly stated that they weren't going to use Polish sausage, but when was that interview done? If it was before they went shopping, which seems probable, they very well may have changed their minds. And while there are a lot of quotes that could be read either way, I found these two quotes from judges' table particularly compelling:
Ted Allen: "So, which is worse? Antonia and Lisa not really focusing on the main ingredient, or Jenn and Steph giving us something that was kind of a muddle on the plate?"
Tom Colicchio: "In Lisa and Antonia's case, you know, they downplayed the Polish sausage and introduced chorizo."
(My emphasis)
If they hadn't used Polish sausage, why on earth would you phrase it like that? Wouldn't you just say they didn't use the main ingredient, or they ignored the main ingredient? It sounds more like the kind of comments you'd hear if the sausage was there, but buried. Also, during the shopping scene, there's a very quiet, quick bit of dialogue between Antonia and Lisa:
Antonia: "Can we really mix Polish and chorizo?"
Lisa: "They're very similar."
So we know for certain that they at least considered using both. And finally, I caught something during the prep scene. I realize this is like the culinary equivalent of the Zapruder film (thanks to Ed Fisher for the screen capture!), but bear with me:
It's a lot clearer in glorious high definition than it is here, but in the hotel pan in front of Antonia? Sure looks like two different sausages to me. The three on the left are that nice, bright chorizo red, but the two on the right are a pale pink. Now, the finer points of tubular Polish meats isn't my area of expertise, but that sausage on the right sure seems like an awfully coarse grind for Polish sausage. So I decided to follow this through to its logical (if completely insane) conclusion.
I called the meat counter at the market where the chefs did their shopping (the Halsted & Waveland Whole Foods in Chicago) and asked if they had a house-made Polish. The fellow I spoke to replied that they do, indeed, make a Polish sausage and that I can find it in the meat case. I asked if it's a really fine grind, like commercial packaged sausage, or if it's a coarse grind. He told me it's the same type of coarse grind as their other fresh sausages.
My conclusion? Antonia and Lisa DID use a little bit of Polish sausage for fear of being disqualified if they didn't, but because they didn't want to, they intentionally buried it deep in the dish. It's not much better than leaving it out entirely, but for those who are hardliners when it comes to the parameters of the challenge, it makes a difference. I don't know this for a fact, and Tom said a couple of other things at the judges' table that sure made it sound like they only used chorizo, but you put everything together -- the recipe, the quotes, the photos, the judging, the Whole Foods meat counter -- and it just fits. I still think Lisa or Antonia probably should've gotten the axe. Even if their ingredient was on the plate, they clearly made an effort to hide it as much as possible and expressed outright contempt for the challenge, which is almost as bad. But I'm less annoyed with the elimination decision since it appears that Polish sausage probably was, in fact, worked into the dish. Did the sleuthing affect the rankings this week? Not really. But it was a good enough way to waste a Friday night.
| 1 |
Richard |
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Quickfires |
3
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5
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1
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| Last Week: 2 |
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Eliminations |
2
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3
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1
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Ladies and gentlemen, the third contestant in Top Chef history to win both the quickfire and elimination in the same episode (yeah, I thought there would have been more, too). Richard gets his groove back, and you don't keep somebody out of the top spot after a week like that. In this quickfire, his banana scallops with banana guacamole and chocolate ice cream sound flat-out awesome. Slicing and searing the bananas like scallops is a fun presentation, but the heart of the dish is the "guacamole", which he made with tarragon, cilantro, basil, lime, chiles and ginger syrup. I realize that most people tend to be dessert purists who don't like it when savory ingredients sneak into their sugar and chocolate, but crossing that sweet/savory divide is where it's at for me, and apparently Johnny Iuzzini agrees. And then -- take note, Antonia and Lisa -- he throws himself into the elimination challenge and comes up with a creative and delicious way of handling a difficult theme ingredient. Tofu is often delicious, but it's tough to make it interesting. But once again, he finds a way to play with the judges' expectations and impress and delight them. I know I'm repeating myself, but the frequency with which he's been able to produce dishes that genuinely surprise the judges is the most impressive feat of any contestant this season. I can't think of any previous contestant who's managed to do that more than a couple of times over the course of the run -- it's tough to keep turning out creative dish after creative dish under pressure -- but between his peach taleggio pizza, jicama tacos, salmon with white chocolate and wasabi, banana scallops and the tofu steak, I count five times now where the judges' reaction has basically been, "I have no idea what this is or how the hell you did it, but it's fantastic." And had I included reactions that were surprised and pleased but not quite dumbfounded, I probably could've upped that number to seven or eight. The salmon scale episode was a fluke. Richard is doing exactly what he needs to do to win this thing, and the really impressive thing is that he keeps doing it week after week. Also, take note of the fact that he had a chance to throw Dale under the bus by tanking the challenge and surviving on immunity. Not only didn't he do that, he didn't even approach the challenge half-heartedly. He was genuinely excited to work with Dale, he gave it everything he had, and then jumped at the chance to give credit rather than fighting for it. That's class.
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| 2 |
Dale |
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Quickfires |
1
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3
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1
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| Last Week: 3 |
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Eliminations |
2
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4
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0
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It's time to reward Dale's emergence as a frontrunner, and he finally breaks into the top two. In case it wasn't clear just how strong he's been lately, since week three, his dishes have gone Win, Top, Top, Bottom, Win, Top, Win (the flub being that pork quickfire where he had a technical problem). And he isn't doing it by sneaking into the top, either. He's earning it. Halo-halo isn't something I have a lot of experience with, so I can't really judge just how creative his dessert quickfire was. I know some places throw some odd combinations at you, but I have a hard time believing that lemongrass-coconut water, braised mango with chiles, avocado shake, brûléed mango, kiwi caviar, five spice cashews, rice krispies, cilantro and chile rings is a typical version. What's really impressive is that, judging from the comments and the blogs, not only did he maintain a great balance with all of those bold, distinctive flavors going on, but also that he managed to keep it light and refreshing. It seems he was only edged by the fact that his was based on a common Filipino dish, whereas Richard's was kind of out of the blue. And while marinating the tofu in grilled beef fat was Richard's brainchild, I'm loathe to downplay Dale's role in the dish. He built the foundation for the tofu steak, and that was a team effort all the way. These guys are genuinely excited to collaborate and throw themselves into every challenge no matter how difficult or goofy it may seem. That kind of energy and enthusiasm, especially in the middle stages of the competition when so many contestants start to drag, speaks volumes their ability to keep creating and executing at such a high level.
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| 3 |
Stephanie |
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Quickfires |
0
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1
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2
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| Last Week: 1 |
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Eliminations |
2
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5
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2
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Some people aren't going to like this one. I know we'd all love to see a woman win this thing. And of course I'm behind the hometown hero. And I've had her in the top slot at times because of her elimination record and some really great looking dishes, but this week further bolstered my feeling that she just isn't the strongest competitor in the field. Her quickfire this week seems to have married chocolate and basil nicely, but it wasn't anything especially noteworthy. And then she gets herself into trouble again on the elimination challenge. Since Jennifer prepared the cheese and bread, it was pretty clear who was going to go, but this seemed like a team effort across the board. Criticisms were that there was way too much cheese and the balance was all off, that they made a poor choice of cooking method on the cheese and it left the dish unpleasantly greasy, and that there was generally way too much going on. On that last count, I have no doubt. The dish just seemed sloppy, both in terms of composition and presentation. That Stephanie seems unable to pull herself out of these occasional tailspins is troubling. Richard's trip to the chopping block, in contrast, was a dumb (though serious) oversight that he wasn't aware of until it was too late. But with Stephanie, it seems like her dish doesn't quite come together, she can see it isn't quite coming together, but she can't quite figure out how to make the necessary adjustments to save it. You see this tendency to get a little lost under pressure in her poor quickfire record, too. Also, I'm a little concerned that her peaks, while frequent, aren't as high as they need to be. It's as though she can bang out eights and nines all day (with the occasional clunker), but she isn't hitting those tens that Richard and Dale have been nailing. These top three are close enough that anything could happen (heck, they've all made their mistakes -- a poorly-timed gaffe could send one of them home next week!), but provided they all make it to the finals, I'm starting to think that Stephanie will find it tough to hang in there with Richard and Dale.
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| 4 |
Andrew |
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Quickfires |
0
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1
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1
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| Last Week: 7 |
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Eliminations |
1
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3
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1
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I'm as surprised as you. No, seriously. The battle for fourth place was a war of attrition this week, and somehow, at the end, Andrew was the last man standing. Antonia hasn't deserved the fourth spot for a few weeks, and this week was the final straw. Lisa certainly didn't show any better. Mark didn't embarrass himself, but he didn't exactly light it up. It seems like Spike was driving the soup, but he's been way too sketchy for way too long to merit that kind of jump without a HUGE week. And Nikki... well, yeah. So congratulations, Andrew, on looking less mediocre than the rest of the field! Actually, I'd like to give some love to Andrew. Despite how irritated I was with him after week one, the dude is slowly turning into my hero. He absolutely defines energy and enthusiasm. At the checkout counter with no idea what we're making? No worries, man, we're improvising! No appliances in the kitchen? Awesome, I can commune with my food! Lop off both of my hands at the wrists? Sweet, I've always wanted to try doing my prep work with my feet! I seriously think you could tell the guy that you're locking him in a closet with Velveeta, a match and a rock and he'd be all OVER that challenge. I thought his banana and chocolate ravioli looked a little clumsy, but I'm sure it was tasty enough. And then he and Spike rocked the elimination with a beautifully executed soup. Once again, Andrew seems to fare a lot better when he's on a team. My sense is that he's better at taking smaller assignments and bounding off to attack them with gusto. I think being a cog makes it easier for him to focus, which isn't going to help him much in the second half of the season. But for the moment, we'll give him the benefit of the doubt and let him enjoy the fourth spot for a week.
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| 5 |
Antonia |
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Quickfires |
1
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2
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1
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| Last Week: 4 |
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Eliminations |
0
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3
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3
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Antonia has demonstrated that she works very cleanly and puts together solid, professional dishes. But she's shown three weaknesses that would put her even lower if those beneath her could get their acts together. First, as discussed in previous weeks, creativity is not her strong suit. She'll have a nice little twist here and there, but for the most part her dishes are very straightforward. Second, she's shown a propensity to serve dishes that, even if they're well-executed, are a little flat or tame from a flavor standpoint. And lastly, she's showing a serious amount of contempt for both the challenges and judges. Don't like Polish sausage? Deal with it. If you don't learn something from how Richard and Dale handled this challenge (do NOT try to suggest that green perplexed tofu was any better than magenta drunken Polish sausage), you might as well just leave now. Just because you can't think of a creative way to handle it doesn't mean it can't be done. And if you aren't hacking it, how about directing that frustration inward and trying to improve yourself rather than lashing out with contempt for the contest you apparently can't handle? What Antonia doesn't seem to understand is that she's lucky to still be around, and it's nobody's fault but her own. That's an attitude that isn't conducive to her continued survival. She'd better get over it quickly.
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| 6 |
Lisa |
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Quickfires |
0
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1
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3
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| Last Week: 5 |
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Eliminations |
1
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3
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1
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That goes double for you, Lisa. When everything blew up after Zoi's elimination, I thought Dale was an incredible jackass. And he was. But I'm actually starting to sympathize. I'm finding it hard to watch Lisa for an hour on television. I can't imagine what it's like to have to live and work with her in a closed environment for weeks on end. She snagged a top three mention in the quickfire, but her dessert was extremely similar to Stephanie's winning dish from the block party. It wasn't a strict repackaging, but -- let's just say it raised my eyebrows. As for the elimination, she isn't the least talented chef left, but she should be gone. I understand the logic -- Stephanie and Jennifer's dish wasn't exactly the best expression of its theme ingredient either, but at least their attempt was in earnest. And it seems pretty clear that if you set aside the thematic issues, the "Polish sausage" dish was a much better dish than the "ménage a trois", but I don't like the precedent that you can blow off the challenge and get away with it. While Antonia could potentially realize that they blew it and got lucky, my hunch is that this is only going to make Lisa more indignant and combative. She just doesn't get it, and I don't think she will. Also, the weirdness continues, as the self-proclaimed upscale Asian specialist still hasn't done an Asian dish since week two. Oh, and Lisa? Despite my low tolerance for people who get hammered and stupid, I'll take a "drunken schmuck" over somebody who's sober, bitter and nasty any day -- so long as we're throwing stones, here.
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| 7 |
Spike |
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Quickfires |
0
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2
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3
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| Last Week: 9 |
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Eliminations |
0
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1
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2
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Maybe it's because he finally got to bust out his soup, but it's nice to see Spike attacking a challenge. Two of them, actually, even if he didn't succeed with the first. Lee Anne says his soufflé was sweet to the point of being completely inedible, but Iuzzini really appreciated the effort. And then, in the elimination, a serious compliment from Tom. "This is probably the best seasoned dish we've had all season," in case you missed it. There are some who seem to feel that Spike and Andrew didn't belong on top. "They just made soup." But as wrong as Spike has been on so many occasions, here he's dead on. It's not just soup if you do it well. And it wasn't a whiz-bang creativity extravaganza, but it had a unique flavor profile and integrated the theme beautifully. Their soup was built with honey and miso, and they worked the vanilla into a dollop of cold crème fraîche, which put the theme front and center and also made for a temperature contrast. They didn't deserve the win, no, but don't underestimate the power of a great soup or the skill and creativity that can go into creating it. I think Spike can do well if he keeps his ego in check, and maybe a successful collaboration with a guy as enthusiastic as Andrew will set him on the right track.
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| 8 |
Mark |
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Quickfires |
2
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2
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1
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| Last Week: 8 |
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Eliminations |
0
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1
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3
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I don't think that Mark's doing anything wrong, per se, it's just that the remaining field is really strong (despite their faults) and he isn't doing anything to stand out other than occasionally working in ingredients I've never heard of. I suppose one upshot to coming in from the other side of the planet is that some of your common ingredients are almost unheard of here. Wattleseed? From what I read, it has a flavor that's reminiscent of coffee and chocolate, but I'd never heard of it before Wednesday. Mark's quickfire was rather elegant, but Iuzzini didn't feel that a plate of petit fours constituted dessert, and I'm inclined to agree. Pavlovas topped with a little fresh fruit is nice enough, but the presentation can't hide the fact that it's a very, very simple dish. Pavlovas are basically meringue with a center that has a marshmallow-like consistency, and they're very commonly topped with fresh fruit, so really the only creative angle was the wattleseed. But really, this was like making a butter cookie and adding cinnamon. It just isn't that much of a stretch, and there isn't much to it. His elimination dish with Nikki also looked solid, but we're entering the second half of the season with the strongest field to date. If nobody screws up, solid will get you eliminated. He's shown he can stand out in this crowd, but he hasn't done it since week two. My sense is that he peaked WAY early. I wouldn't totally discount a late charge, but it's looking less and less likely with every passing week.
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| 9 |
Nikki |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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3
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| Last Week: 10 |
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Eliminations |
0
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1
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2
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The Slacker King took sixth place in season two and Nikki has now locked up no worse than ninth. But the field was one chef smaller back then, so for those paying attention, Nikki only needs to escape elimination three more times to out-Mikey Mikey. In the meantime, every time I have to bump her up a spot because there aren't enough chefs left to do otherwise, I die a little inside.
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| 10 |
Jennifer |
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Quickfires |
1
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3
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0
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| Last Week: 6 |
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Eliminations |
0
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1
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1
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Well, that success was short-lived. Even though her excessive displays of weepy devotion burned through much of my goodwill over the past couple of weeks, I dug her recipes and I'm disappointed to see my dark horse go. For what it's worth, Lee Anne agrees -- she went well before her time. She showed a little fire in her exit, but it struck me less as sour grapes and more as respectfully standing up for her dish. She didn't agree with it, but she accepted it. And though Lisa would have been my pick, with the given that the judges opted to punish their least favorite dish, Jennifer didn't have a prayer. While Stephanie was working up a vinaigrette and gastrique about which we heard no complaints, Jennifer was frying up greasy, oversized cheese and chewy, oversized bread. The bigger sin, as far as I'm concerned, however, was the innuendo. I'm no prude. I can handle the taboo. But when a full-grown adult dishes it out (no pun intended) at a junior high level, it's mostly just cringeworthy. Asparagus as erect phallus is grounds for instant elimination no matter how good you are. I realize that "turned-on" was part of their challenge, but the manner in which they presented it on both the plate and the menu wasn't clever... just dumb.
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Next week brings us Art Smith, who I don't really know anything about beyond the fact that he's Oprah's personal chef and he's incredibly well-respected for his charity work. If nothing else, between him and Tom, it should be a banner week for the bear community. We get no hints whatsoever about the quickfire, but there's a huge pile of fresh vegetables on the table behind Smith. And the elimination looks to be an individual one (woo!), if you don't count the fact that every chef has a half pint in tow. Smith is all about foods for the whole family, so my guess is they have to come up with a recipe and coach the kids through the prep, without actually doing any cooking themselves. I suppose I see the logic. Can you come up with a delicious recipe that anybody -- truly anybody -- can do? But it's the kind of excessive gimmick that I've always hated on this show. If my guess is correct, the whole world could be turned upside-down. This is roughly Nikki's standard level of sophistication, so she might actually be okay again. Richard has control issues, which worries me more than a little. Andrew basically IS a kid, so I can see him rocking this challenge. But I'm hoping this one means curtains for Lisa. Patience isn't her strong suit, and we've all seen how she reacts when she thinks a challenge is dumb. Seems like the perfect setup for her ouster.
Discuss!