| 17 |
Jacqueline |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
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Jacqueline (that's jack-LEEN, apparently) might have some skills, but she's chock full of warning signs, not the least of which is that she's a 9/11 career changer who was originally in advertising. Which explains why the website for her catering company, Jacqueline Lombard Events, is so slick. That she did a stint at Otto looks semi-interesting, until it's revealed that she was doing pastry. No less noble, but that's a bonus for Top Chef, not a baseline. Where it gets really problematic is when you try to figure out what kind of food she's cooking now. Her newest restaurant project, Leña, isn't off the ground. Her website has been oddly scrubbed of all menus and recipes, leaving no clue as to her style. In fact, the only information I could find about any of her food was a handful of reviews of Gansevoort 69, where she developed a comfort food menu that's garnered responses ranging from mediocre to awful. Yeah, everybody and their brother is doing comfort-ING food nowadays, but she really takes it to an extreme. Meatloaf with diced peas and carrots? Grilled chicken sandwich with guacamole? BLT? The menu reads like the clubhouse grill at a public golf course. And I've seen photos. They look about as good. One blogger tried her Spaghettios (yes, she served spaghettios) and said Chef Boyardee's Franco American's were better. Ouch. Far as I can tell, she has a really pretty website with a long list of big name clients. But it's tough to go on that alone. I'm putting her at the bottom of the pile until further notice.
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| 16 |
Amanda |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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I'm very uncomfortable putting Amanda this low, not because I've seen anything to make me think she deserves anything higher, but because I just haven't seen anything. She's worked within Joachim Splichal's organization and was even executive sous of his ill-fated seafood joint, Paperfish, but I just have absolutely no idea what she can do. She trained at Le Cordon Bleu and has seemingly bounced all over the place, hitting a few Michelin-starred places in Europe as well as -- by her own description -- just about all of the fine dining restaurant in Los Angeles (a dubious claim, but okay). But what does she cook? No clue. Has she ever designed a menu or even her own dishes? Couldn't tell you. She isn't even attached to a restaurant at the moment, listing her occupation as "consultant." She's a total mystery contestant who could turn out to be some kind of mega sleeper. But I doubt it. So I'm putting her near the bottom.
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| 15 |
Lynne |
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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If this were 2001 instead of 2011, I might have Lynne a lot higher. And it's not because of her age (51). Unlike some, I don't buy the theory that anybody over a certain age is washed-up. She may prove to be, but I'm not jumping to that conclusion. No, the reason I bring up ancient history is because once upon a time, in a town called Atlanta, Lynne had a very warmly-regarded restaurant called Grappa, where she prepared her "hands off" cuisine, treating things simply and letting ingredients be. And I can see that appealing to Colicchio, in particular, if she does it really well. But Grappa is long, long gone, and it seems that she's spent her time since then as a professor at the CIA. Excuse me, assistant professor. Now, I hesitate to throw out fighting words that start with "Those who can't do," but it does kinda make you wonder. Maybe not. Maybe she's a fabulously skilled chef who was simply seeking a little stability. After helming a failed restaurant, post forty no less, I can see how regular hours and a steady paycheck might be mighty attractive. But even if so, she's been out of the fire for a while. Gotta consider her a bottom-tier contestant with upside potential.
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| 14 |
Tamesha |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
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There are a lot of reasons I can't put Tamesha very high. At 24, she's very young. She's never held an executive position that I can find, and while her bio lists her style as modern American with French and Asian influences, I've seen no concrete examples thereof. What she has going for her is that she's currently sous at The Oval Room, which is really rocking the DC food nerds I know right now. And what's more, she was brought there by Executive Chef Tony Conte, who left Jean-Georges' stable and took her with him. So she has to be a formidable technician, and she's working a hot kitchen. That has to be worth something. And bonus, home field advantage.
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| 13 |
Kenny |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Kenny's another contestant I have a very, very tenuous grip on. He runs a company called Passionate Culinary Enterprises, which "is focused on assisting food and beverage organizations to become synergistically sound." Okay, then. Basically, it looks like restaurant management and consulting. And in his intro video, he even talks about how he'd really like to go beyond the food and bring some leadership to Top Chef. The guy's already pegging himself as a manager rather than a creative. But he has real restaurant experience. He made a little buzz down in Florida about a decade ago, and his most recent project is all of the food for a Telluride resort called Capella, including their fine dining restaurant, Onyx. But damned if I can't find anything anybody has to say about Onyx, good or bad. Onyx doesn't even post a full menu, instead highlighting just two or three dishes. Kenny defines his style with a grocery list of ethnic cuisines including Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Italian, Middle Eastern, Indian, Native American, Moroccan and African. Sure you didn't miss any there, Kenny? But that's not exactly evident in his current work. But dig a little bit, and it turns out he's done a number of dinners at the James Beard house, and some of them look kind of interesting. So I'm going to put him near the top of the bottom tier. There might be some sleeper potential here. At the very least, he should be technically sound enough and experienced enough to survive for a while.
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| 12 |
Tiffany |
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| Last Week: n/a |
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This is about where I feel there's a transition to the middle of the pack, and while it's tricky to find daylight between most of them this season, I feel like I have a pretty good grip on where most of them are coming from. Tiffany does seafood, and this means so could be Ripert's best friend, or his favorite punching bag. She's the executive chef of Go Fish Ocean Club in Dallas, and it has a menu of clean, crisply presented seafood with Asian and the occasional island accents. Oysters with green apple mignonette; fried green tomatoes with shrimp ravigote, radish pico and remoulade; olive oil poached escolar with fiddlehead ferns, morels, corn and garlic confit; jerk fish... you get the idea. Tiffany has been heading up the kitchen there since 2008, so she's had some time to get her sea legs (ha!), and a recent writeup from the Dallas Morning News was rather complimentary. Plus, the food goes a fairly refined route, which would help in the later stages should she stick around. Plus, I like the fact that her alma mater, the Art Institute of Houston, apparently thought enough of her to let her do some amount of instruction so young. Yeah, I know, could've been the culinary equivalent of a TA for all we know, but it implies she was a good student. Of course, she's young, there isn't a ton out there about Go Fish and she's bound to fall into Ripert's crosshairs at some point, so there are some significant marks against her, but I think she might show us something that merits sticking around for a bit.
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| 11 |
Alex |
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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I'm not sure why, but I'm getting kind of a dark horse vibe from Alex. And I say dark horse because his menu is out there, it's clearly his, and yet I'm having a heck of a time finding much in the way of commentary upon it. He trained at Le Cordon Bleu in Vegas, and worked at Lutece and a number of restaurants in the Bally's empire before catching the eye of Ivan Kane and moving to Los Angeles to launch Ivan Kane's Cafe Was. Cafe Was looks more like a theme park than a restaurant, but what little I can find seems to be positive, and his menu looks interesting, at least. He terms it "California Bistro," which looks to me like mostly straightforward French bistro with some creative touches. The problem is that so little has been written about the place that I'm really not sure what to think. Is it untouched by the MSM because it's young, or because it looks like a theme restaurant? Hard to say. So I just can't put him any higher. But there might be a little surprise potential here.
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| 10 |
Arnold |
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Arnold makes me nervous. First because he's a big personality, and you always have to wonder if the big personalities get a bit of a pass on skill. Second, because he's a career changer who started as a figure skater (you can't make this stuff up). And third, because of his cooking style. But we'll get to that. In his favor, he comes from a restaurant family, he did some training in NYC including some involvement in the Jean-Georges empire that I couldn't nail down, and he currently owns and is the EC for three successful Nashville area restaurants. Launching three winners (even if two of them are fairly young) is impressive for a 32-year-old, no matter where you live. What gives me pause is that his three restaurants -- PM, Cha Chah and Suzy Wong's House of Yum (you read that right) -- absolutely scream scene over cuisine. And some menu items are pushing into Tex Wasabi territory. Deluxe Asian wonton nachos with BBQ pork, queso blanco, edamame, cilantro pico, sriracha and red curry crema... wait, what? Seriously, it reads like your worst Asian fusion nightmare. The menu at Cha Chah, a tapas joint, is a little less frightening, but it also lends the impression that he's dabbling in cuisines rather than learning them. But all of the local press I could find is quite positive and, again, the guy's launched three winners, so I'm trying to respect those facts even if my instincts say no, no, please, no.
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| 9 |
Tracey |
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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I have Tracey in the upper end of the MOTP (middle of the pack) because she's been around a while, seems well-regarded back home, is coming out of the CIA and might have a little extra versatility. Actually, she's been around quite a bit, bouncing around Georgia and Florida for a number of years. Then she was sous at Luna Park in the Orlando area before landing at her current home, Table 1280 in Atlanta, where she was elevated to EC in early 2008. She does contemporary American with some Southern touches, sending out dishes like royal rock shrimp with Logan Turnpike grits and maple cheddar; black bass with shaved cauliflower, sweet celery, white truffle oil and salsa verde; or a Niman Ranch pork chop with toasted farro, asparagus and pickled ramps. A lot of her pairings are fairly conventional by today's standards, but by all local accounts I could find they're cleanly plated, properly prepared and quite tasty. She hasn't gotten enough notice to make me think she's anything more than a middle-of-the-packer, but she seems capable. Also in her favor is the fact that she does a lot of themed menus to coordinate with the productions and art exhibitions at the Woodruff Arts Center, which houses the restaurant. When the terra cotta soldiers roll into town, maybe Chinese isn't her specialty, but that kind of flexibility could help her survive when she's forced out of her element. And she does pastry, which is the Top Chef equivalent of a mini derringer in a calf holster.
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| 8 |
Timothy |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Though Timothy is somehow supposed to be an almost star who has trained with some big names, I'm troubled less by what I've heard about him and more by what I haven't heard about him. He came up under Jean-Louis Palladin in DC, who thought enough of him to make him Chef de Cuisine of Palladin in NYC. And his bio notes that he's worked alongside Alain Ducasse (indeed, it looks like he spent some time at Louis XV in Monaco), Roberto Donna, Guenter Seeger and Patrick Clark (even if the careful wording of "worked alongside" gives me pause... heck, I worked alongside Charlie Trotter.) But here's the thing. Timothy has spent the past six or seven years in Baltimore, and I lived -- quite literally -- four or five blocks from his place for two years. And I basically heard nothing. He opened his first restaurant, Timothy Dean Bistro, in 2004. When the Bistro started tanking, he converted it into TD Lounge, which is what it was for most of my stay in Baltimore. And now, he's just launched Prime Steakhouse (which, BTW, uses choice meat), and the lead critic for the Baltimore Sun seems to feel it's a just shy of great kind of restaurant. So why, when I ping the Baltimore food nerds for a little info, do I get a collective shrug in return? Admittedly, Timothy has had a lot of distractions. He's been involved in a couple of very high-profile lawsuits, and it sounds like he lost his wife to breast cancer a few years ago. Maybe a little Top Chef-style isolation, where he has nothing to do but concentrate on the food for a few weeks, is exactly what he needs to show this great culinary promise he's supposed to have. But I'm dubious.
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| 7 |
John |
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Here, I see another bit of a break as we move into contestants who have some strong credentials, but aren't cracking the top tier because there are just some question marks. I realize I just put a guy who was a James Beard nominee in 2008 and 2009 down at number seven. And no, it's not an indication of an incredible top six. It's just... it's just... I dunno. Something about John's whole situation gives me pause. He's an engineer who fell into a restaurant called The Lark, outside of Detroit. And he's been there for sixteen years, working his way from garde manger up to Chef de Cuisine, a position he's held since 2006. So the guy has spent his entire culinary career in one restaurant. And that one restaurant is a bit of an odd duck. The Lark is an old warhorse with an old world decor managed by old world Europeans who guided its mostly old world European menu. You choose a main course, and with that main course comes a nondescript salad and a selection from the "hors d'oeuvre trolley." If you order their signature Rack of Lamb Gehghis Khan, you get a little printed card showing how many they've now served. And yet, it's now overseen -- and has been for four or five years -- by a guy who supposedly is into all kinds of eclectic, international flavors? The menu's oddly schizophrenic. Roast prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, Tournedos Rossini, Lobster Thermidor, prime beef strip loin with Burgundy reduction on one hand. Then there's macadamia nut crusted barramundi with tropical fruit relish and ginger beurre blanc, morel and artichoke Napoleon with pine nuts and tempura vegetables, grilled loin of rabbit with garlic flan... I mean, nothing's that far out there but it almost seems like there's a culture clash going on, and I just don't know what to make of it. And yet, a lot of people love the place. It's been around forever, charging $70-90 a head for this prix fixe menu. But reading around, I just kind of get the impression that it's coasting on reputation. I haven't read anything good from any source I trust, and there's a little too much, "Yeah... it's really not all that," going on. I don't know. Sometimes those early James Beard nominations are peppered with big fish in small ponds, and I wonder if this is one of those situations. I may regret starting John off so low, but there it is.
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| 6 |
Andrea |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
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Andrea strikes me as a "you know what you're going to get" contestant, and I feel like I can already see her trajectory: Solid at the start, maybe a little vanilla but steady, slowly outpaced as it gets into the second half of the season. She's a CIA grad who's run a restaurant called Talula along with her husband down in Miami for about ten years, and it's gotten a lot of great press. At first, I thought she might be a heavy hitter, but then I started looking a little more closely. She was one of Food & Wine's best new chefs... in 2000. The NY Times listed Talula in a section of "places to be now"... in 2003. Their website is chock full of nice press clippings... from 2004 and 2005. I started to get the impression that maybe time had just passed Andrea by, and then I fell upon a piece in the local alternative paper that basically said exactly that (the sharp retort from Andrea's husband in the comments section of that post was... interesting). But some food nerds seem to love the place, and claim that Talula is still one of the best joints in the area, it's just that Miami Beach tourists have been seduced by glitzier options that have opened in the interim. Adding another layer of interest is that Andrea and her husband are just now opening a place called The Water Club with a really basic-looking sandwichy salady kind of menu that would seem totally nondescript except for the fact that it seats 500 people. Based purely on her husband's response to that post in the Miami New Times, it's clear she and her husband have something to prove. Either they cook the right way and they've been outpaced by more glamorous options, or they're still cooking like they did a decade ago and the rest of the world has moved on. Guess we'll find out which.
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| 5 |
Kevin |
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0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
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He's from Jersey, he's a big, beefy guy, and he runs a place called Rat's Restaurant. This does NOT tell you all you need to know about Kevin. It's rather misleading, in fact. Kevin, as far as I can tell, is not season seven's Joey/Howie/Danny. First off, Rat's Restaurant is actually a reference to The Wind in the Willows, and it's located at the Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton. And second, in his intro interview at least, Kevin strikes me as rather soft-spoken. So he's not what he seems from a quick glance at the bio. So what is he? Well, he's been running Rat's since Stephen Starr took it over last summer, where he's been putting out a French-Mediterranean menu with some creative touches... toasted peanuts with the duck pate, sea beans with the butter-braised lobster tail, smoked chickpeas with the steamed halibut, etc. There are some less unique options too, like the spinach ravioli with parmesan froth, sweet pea puree, porcini mushrooms and lemon oil. Of course, the menu actually reads "raviolis," so maybe you can't take the Jersey out of the kid after all. But the thing I keep coming back to is that it sounds like he made a pretty good showing at the 2008 USA trials for the Bocuse d'Or. Now, we can debate the merits of the competition, and the award he won was for presentation (meat, natch), but it takes an incredible amount of dedication to jump into that fray, and the fact that he was even on that stage says something. And with two or three years as Chef de Cuisine at the Ritz in Philadelphia and a stint as culinary director of Jose Garces' restaurant group, it isn't as though his resume is light. Thing is, he's originally from Hamilton, and now he's working in Hamilton. My hunch is that he could've move onto to bigger and better things, but decided he'd like to be home for a little while. I'm getting a good vibe here. Rat's is kind of under the radar, but I think Kevin might have some surprises in him.
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| 4 |
Angelo |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
0
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I have Angelo as a near miss for the top tier. What I like about him is that he's a CIA grad who spent a lot of time in prominent positions for Jean-Georges restaurants, including stints as executive sous at Spice Market and even Jean Georges. What I don't like about him is that the first restaurant he opened as EC, Yumcha, tanked in under a year, and he's now running a sandwich show. Which sounds worse than it is. Sosa is all about creative Asian, and Yumcha, somewhat in the spirit of Jean-Georges' own failed 66, was a very open, modern take on Chinese cuisine. Chinese-inspired might even be a more appropriate way of putting it. And from what I can tell, people really liked it! Important people who know their food, even! So I can't figure out why the place didn't make it, and it's tough digging up info on places that have been closed for five years. Perhaps some NY food nerd can fill us in, here. So now, he runs Xie Xie, which is an Asian sandwich shop with five sandwiches. Not banh mi, mind you, but Asian sandwiches. Really interesting, creative ones, actually, that people -- important people who know their food, even -- seem to rather like. So I get the feeling that the guy was stung by Yumcha's failure and is kind of regrouping. I'd feel better if it weren't taking so long, but it seems like there's a lot to like here. Heck, the guy was even invited by Alain Ducasse to do a guest menu at Spoon in Paris (though I didn’t particularly like Spoon). It’s just... five sandwiches, huh?
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| 3 |
Kelly |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
0
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0
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0
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Here we enter the top tier, even if I kick it off with one that could (and probably will) come back to bite me in the ass. I just can't help but rank Kelly awfully high. In some ways, she has Eve written all over her. Her restaurant, Kelly Liken (oy), is in a very small, insular community, she's been running the place since 2004, and everybody seems to love it. But she hasn't traveled, hasn't worked in any big kitchens I can find, and has seemed pretty content to do her thing out there in Vail, Colorado. Which is great, if she's good. And she might be as good as the limited press suggests. She's a CIA grad, she's pulled down a James Beard nomination, Bon Appétit was all over her at one point... she's been making some noise out there. Heck, she even has camera experience. She recently challenged on Iron Chef America, and lost to Jose Garces. Sadly, I missed it, and it wasn't exceptionally close. Garces beat her by five points, including a large-ish gap in the all-important "taste" category (the ingredient was bleu cheese). But again, the fact that she was asked on the show says something, and I'm sure she took a lot away from that experience that's going to come in handy on Top Chef. And I like the cut of her jib. She cooks a fun-looking contemporary American menu with a lot of local influence, including dishes like Dungeness crab salad with tomato-watermelon gazpacho, chili oil and pickled watermelon rind; pan roasted duck breast with wild rice hoe cake, sautéed arugula, blackberry conserve and cassis gastrique; and Colorado rack of lamb with eggplant caviar, feta studded farro, pickled red-onion fennel salad and creamy cucumber raita. The only red flag -- and it isn't a small one -- is that her latest venture, a casual joint called Rick & Kelly's American Bistro, is getting savaged. But if it turns out that she's simply a one-restaurant chef who can't maintain a satellite, is that necessarily a bad thing?
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| 2 |
Stephen |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
0
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0
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0
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I have never been less confident about my top two picks, ever. And the reason is that I'm kind of flying blind on them. Let me explain. Stephen is a total pro who's been around the block a few times. He's externed with Charlie Trotter and Thomas Keller (I think). He's been working for Michael Mina for over a decade, and is currently EC of Michael Mina's Seablue in Vegas, sous at Stripsteak before that. In fact, it kind of sounds like he's been Mina's go-to guy when it comes to maintaining the empire as of late. He's been around the right people, and I don't have the slightest doubt that he's going to be technically sound, a total pro, and that he'll be around late. Or at least late-ish. But what does he cook? Got me. Mina's food, I guess. And so you see why I look at the number two next to his name and kind of shake my head. Guess we'll find out if he can be a number one, or if he'll always be a number two. Um. You know what I mean.
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| 1 |
Ed |
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Quickfires |
0
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0
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0
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| Last Week: n/a |
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Eliminations |
0
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0
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0
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I'm similarly nervous about Ed. Holy cow, does this guy have a resume. CIA, Olives with Todd English, No. 9 Park with Barbara Lynch, executive sous at DB Bistro Moderne and Daniel with Daniel Boulud, a stint as EC of Veritas, BLT Market with Laurent Tourondel... he's had his ass kicked for many years by some very high-profile chefs. And he ALMOST escaped the Stephen trap, since he just launched Plein Sud with Frederick Lesort, so I can at least get a look at his menu. But Plein Sud is less than a month old, and there's precious little to read about it just yet. It's brasserie cuisine, and it looks pretty straightforward, but he just has to be rocking it. Has to be. Right? *fingers crossed*
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